NOAA Research Vessel Charts Deep Water Secrets

By MARK ALAN LOVEWELL

Quick's Hole is a narrow passage that lies between the islands of Pasque and Nashawena, a treacherous passage lined with boulders on either side that earned its name from the swift currents running through it.

The hole lies seven miles northwest of Menemsha. Vessels traveling between Menemsha and New Bedford use this channel to thread the chain of the Elizabeth Islands. Rocks are visible along the shoreline, and many more dangers lie below, charted and uncharted.

On Tuesday afternoon the Thomas Jefferson, a 208-foot research and survey vessel used by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) for ocean research, was anchored off Cape Pogue. The ship was off the Vineyard for a final day as work was completed on a survey of the waters of Edgartown, Cow Bay and parts of Nantucket Sound.

Earlier this summer the Thomas Jefferson was in Quick's Hole as the ship's crew and supporting vessels did extensive survey work in the waters around the Vineyard. While the intention was to update existing navigational maps, the Thomas Jefferson also found three wrecked fishing boats and a sunken barge.

It has been a busy summer for the ship, one of a fleet of 17 white-hulled research and survey vessels used by NOAA. The ship's principal purpose is to conduct hydrographic surveys for updating nautical maps, and it is loaded with an array of state-of-the-art equipment capable of detecting just about anything below. Scientists on board have more than just experience to plot maps; they can find sunken ships and lost airplanes at just about any depth.

On board the Thomas Jefferson, executive officer Shepard M. Smith, 35, has an unusual job. The ship is a floating science center, with staff and crew of varying expertise.

Plenty of areas along the coast haven't been surveyed in more than 70 years. The work of the ship is ongoing, with no shortage of assignments - only a shortage of time and resources. The Thomas Jefferson came to the Vineyard this summer at the request of the U.S. Coast Guard to update two critical areas for passage: Quick's Hole and Edgartown harbor.

The survey of the Edgartown harbor was driven in part by Capt. Daniel Farren, who pilots the passenger ferry Pied Piper between Falmouth and Edgartown. Captain Farren wants a shorter and safer route, and Mr. Smith explained that there is an area of rocks and a buoy outside of Edgartown harbor that all big vessels pass around.

Sailboats and powerboats leaving or coming into Edgartown harbor must pass around the red buoy which lies three miles north of the Edgartown Lighthouse in Nantucket Sound. A number of rocks appear on the charts just south of the buoy. Some have names: Allen Rock, Hatsett Rock and Monohansett Rock. The water depth on old charts ranges from two to 12 feet.

The survey work is done using a 29-foot aluminum diesel-powered launch. The vessel has a sonar sighting device on the bottom.

Operations officer Marc Moser described the bottom of Edgartown harbor as little more than shifting sand and a few rocks. "It is not very exciting," he said.

Quick's Hole is an entirely different place, a place with a diverse underwater landscape. "Quick's Hole is spectacular," Mr. Smith said. With the help of senior survey technician Peter Lewit Mr. Smith called a huge computer file onto the screen that depicted the passage in three dimensions. With the click of a mouse, Mr. Smith sped through an area of bottom to a sunken fishing boat lying on the sand. The wrecked boat lay near some hills and a few valleys, partially buried. Lobster pots or fish pots could be seen piled up in the sand just to stern of the vessel.

Mr. Lewit said it is likely that when the boat sank the lobster gear fell to stern. No one aboard knew how the vessel sank.